Lucknow

I believe our Indian hosts put us on the ground in Varanasi only partially because it's the oldest and holiesty living city. The other reason likely is because they wanted to shock us into submission with the press of people and creatures, the noise and intensity, so when we moved along we would feel relieved when we reached places like Lucknow. Yes, it's the capital of Uttar Pradesh. Yes, there is still heavy pressure, thick air and many people, but to a lesser extent, and even beyond that, a more subdued attitude among the masses. Somesh, my gracious host, told me early "You will find that residents of Lucknow are much more easy going, relaxed and tolerant than in other areas of the country." He was right. Listening to Somesh speak, in itself, calms the nerves. He is an eloquent speaker who knows much about his world and mine. He is an exporter of clothing and handicrafts and travels often to the U.S., U.K. and Australia. Yesterday he was our guide to Chhota Imambara and Bada Imambara, Muslim temples and gathering places started in the mid 1700s and completed following an extensive famine by an Iranian architect in the mid 1800s. The earlier building, which boasts the largest hall in Asia, was constructed with no reinforced materials, such as iron. The best I could understand is that each aspect of its stability is due to keystone construction, the type of work that keeps an arch in place. Somesh says the entire building is ventilated from the floor, and because of the particular air flow, if the windows atop the structure were closed, the entire place would crumble to the ground. This building, atop 45 steps to a second level, is a labyrinth of thin narrow passages -- "Two wrong and one right," our guide kept repeating. At various interior points of this dark and tight maze, there are vantages to the front gate, seen from secret either straight away or by virtue of a reflecting pool of water. It's easy to see the enemy enter without being seen. Also, from the front and back end of each hall, a person can stand and whisper a message that reaches the other end with striking clarity. To illustrate this, our guide lit a match from more than a football field away. As the twinkle of light appeared in his hand, the sound of the match was as if it was born from your own. We also visited a gallery of antique, artisan chandaliers and other wall hangings, took lunch and had a beer at a relaxing hotel resturant, and went for a pleasant stroll in a place that was set up under British rule as a military compound. India's military now resides there (60 years of independance!), but now the park is open to anyone who would like a reprieve from motorized traffic and to enjoy the whistling and open spaces. Nighttime brought the intention of going to see a Hindi comedy, but we had a dinner party of 10 at a hotel run by the Taj group and ran past midnight. We'll save the movie for another day. Today, I'm as Somesh's house writing and reading. We'll sit on the terrace and eat some fruits. Later we'll shop a little. Then my group will reconvene here and have a pizza and beer party on the terrace. Yes, it's a birthday celebration for me, so I get to spend it my way. Yea!